In my admittedly bizarre mind, stews are the football game of the culinary playing field. An unabashedly hearty scrimmage of bold flavors and big textures bashing into each other, and when it’s a really good match up, there will be a few nimble escalations per serving that make you want to stand up and cheer. That was until I met this stew. The stand up a cheer part is still there, but the textures are nuanced and synchronized, more of a mélange than a scrimmage, the flavors subtle and harmonized.
Slivers of fennel, loads of leek and onion, pillowy soft beans in a mild saffron scented broth accentuated by these tiny bits of salt-cured olive and crumbly creamy & tangy feta; this was a new kind of stew for me. Delicate, subtle, yet substantial, dare I saw sophisticated? So lovely it made me put down my phone. I sipped the broth, wiggled a few more fennel fronds onto my spoon and enjoyed the simplicity.
FENNEL STEW
— adapted from Near and Far: Recipes Inspired by Home and Travel by Heidi Swanson (Ten Speed Press, 2015)
- 4 small (baby) fennel bulbs, cut into thin wedges, fronds reserved
- 2 generous pinches of saffron (about 40 threads)
- Fine-grain sea salt
- ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
- 4 small yellow onions, cut into ¼-inch slices through the root end
- 4 medium leeks, washed, trimmed, and cut into ¼-inch slices
- 6 small cloves garlic very thinly sliced
- 2 pounds of cooked corona beans (cannellini work well too)
- 2/3 cup dry white wine
- 2 to 3 cups warm water (or broth left-over from cooking the beans)
- Feta or goat cheese, chopped oily black olives, and lemon wedges to serve
METHOD
It is important in this recipe to take care when cutting the vegetables as their shape and size subtly plays into the harmonizing effect of the whole.
Blanch the fennel briefly in well-salted boiling water until crisp tender, 1-2 minutes, drain, put in an ice bath until chilled, and drain again. Set aside.
Using a mortar and pestle, grind the saffron with ¼ teaspoon sea salt.
In a large pot over medium heat gently heat the olive oil and saffron until fragrant. After about a minute, add the onions and cook gently for about 10 minutes. This is just to soften them, but we don’t want any browning here. Add in the leeks and garlic, give it all a good stir and cook for another few minutes. Add the wine, beans, and just enough water or broth to cover the beans. Bring everything to a gentle simmer for 3-4 minutes. When you are just about ready to serve the stew, stir in the reserved fennel slices and any fennel fronds to warm them through. Top each serving with the chopped olives and feta or goat cheese. Give a good squeeze of fresh lemon juice to each and you’re ready to dig in.